Saddle Fitting 101
“Ouch!”
Is this the expression you see on your horse’s face when tacking up? If it is, you may want to take a close look at your saddle. A poor fitting saddle can be the cause of numerous changes in your horse’s behavior.
If your horse is reluctant to have your saddle placed on his back, most likely it is either pinching his shoulders or is bridging. When the saddle is pinching a horse’s shoulder, it can cause a great deal of pain which in turn affects his behavior. The horse will start to bear down more on the bit and/or become heavier on the forehand when being ridden. This is a result of him trying to escape the pain of the saddle pinching. Just imagine having a 150 pound object jamming into your scapula while doing chin ups for a few minutes every day and that is how your horse feels. Putting more pads on an ill fitting saddle will not be the solution.
To check for a shoulder problem, tack up your horse and place your hand under the panel at the front of the saddle by the shoulder. If you can’t do this easily, then you definitely have a problem. Then have someone else lift the horse’s front leg on that side and bring it forward. When a horse steps forward, the scapula rotates backwards, so a saddle that may appear to fit when the horse is standing could be causing a big problem when the horse is in motion.
Bridging can also do a great deal of damage to your horse’s back. Bridging occurs when the saddle makes contact with the horse’s back under the pommel and under the cantle but not in between. This can be the result of a problem with the panels or it might just be the wrong style of panel for your horse’s back. A saddle with a very flat panel on a horse with a more curved back will always result in bridging. You can run your hand along the horse’s back underneath the panels to get an idea of whether or not your saddle is bridging.
Flocking is what the panels of the saddle are stuffed with. The panels sit directly on the horse’s back and affect fit as well as balance. Most saddles are flocked with wool, synthetic wool, foam, memory foam, or air. When the saddle is ridden in consistently, the flocking will eventually settle down and change. It is advised that you have the flocking checked every six months. Check for even sweat marks on both sides of your horse’s back as an indicator of a problem with your flocking. You can also evaluate fit by riding in a clean, plain white cotton pad and examining the marks left on the pad. A saddle that fits correctly will have a mark at the shoulder that looks like a large triangle with a cleaner spot in the middle of it. There will also be some round marks under the cantle and on either side of a clean line all the way down the spine.
Another cause of back pain could be a broken or cracked tree. Although this is a rare incidence, it can happen. If your saddle starts to creak in a way that you are not used to, you should have it checked by a professional. A broken tree is a serious problem and if you feel you have one, stop riding in it immediately. Most saddle makers have warranties on their trees and can help you out in this situation. This is one important benefit of purchasing a new saddle as opposed to a used saddle. Many new saddles that are made today have 5 year, 10 year, or even lifetime warranties on the tree. However, once the saddle changes hands and has a new owner, in most cases the saddle is no longer under warranty. What causes a broken tree? Usually trees break if the saddle has been through a major trauma such as a horse flipping over on it. But we have also seen broken trees as a result of a weak point in the tree’s structure, and after years of riding the tree simply gives and splits at the weak point. If you are considering purchasing a used saddle, make sure that the tree has been thoroughly checked for soundness by a professional.
A saddle is the second most expensive item you will buy as a rider. It is important to research different styles and fits before you make your final decision. We have several books and videos on saddle fitting. Also, consult with your trainer before you make your purchase. They are professionals who have your best interest in mind.
Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions or concerns about your saddle.
Leather Care 101
Your saddle is an investment. With proper care, a well made saddle should last you at least 10 – 15 years. Here are a few simple steps that we recommend to prolong the life of your saddle.
• Your saddle should be given a complete wipe-down every time it is used. Surface dirt can be removed with a clean cloth slightly moistened with warm water.
• Clean your saddle thoroughly with a glycerin saddle soap on a weekly basis. Recommended products: Leather New, Epona Bar in a Jar, or any plain glycerin bar.
• Allow the saddle to dry at normal room temperature, never in the sun or under intense heat. Glycerin soap, while necessary to clean your saddle, removes essential oils from the hide. Always apply a leather conditioner after cleaning your saddle. At Equus Now! our favorite leather conditioners are Passier Lederbalsam, Akene Conditioner, and Effax Leder Combi. Once the leather has been cleaned and conditioned, let it dry completely. Then buff it to a shine with a clean cloth.
• DO NOT OVER APPLY CONDITIONERS AND OILS! Leather can only absorb so much before a sticky build up will clog the leather’s pores. Excess conditioners and oils, particularly those of poor quality, can also degrade stitching.
For new saddles, we recommend applying several coats of oil to protect and soften the leather. Our favorite oil is Hydrophane which is a thin oil that soaks in quickly and will not leave a greasy residue. Hydrophane is also available in a darkening oil. Apply the oil to both sides of the leather. Do not oil your stirrup leathers or the saddle’s billets, as this can lead to excessive stretching. After the initial break in process, we recommend oiling your saddle every 3 – 4 months.
Caring for your bridle and other strap goods: Bridles should be cared for in a similar manner. After each ride, wipe down your bridle with a clean, damp cloth. Make sure your bit is completely clean. On a weekly or semi-weekly basis, completely dismantle your bridle. Soak your bit in warm water with a mild soap like Ivory. Wipe down all of the pieces of leather then use a glycerin soap to clean the bridle. Allow the pieces to dry and then condition them before reassembling your bridle. We recommend Passier Lederbalsam as well as their NEW Passier Bridle Cleaner.
For new bridles, we do not recommend dipping your strap goods in oil. Once a common practice, this method of over-saturation has been the demise of many a well-made bridle! Apply one or two coats of an oil such as Hydrophane and with regular cleaning and conditioning, your bridle will be soft and supple in no time. Stay away from Neatsfoot Oil Compound. These products tend to prematurely wear through stitching and most manufacturers strongly oppose the use of it. Some even go so far as to not warranty strap goods that have come in contact with Neatsfoot Oil Compound.
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